Where better than the ‘best preserved Swahili settlement in East Africa’ to celebrate all things
On 22nd to 25th November, Lamu will be celebrating its heritage at the Lamu Cultural Festival. And Lamu, one of the earliest ports to be established on the coast of East Africa, has quite some heritage to celebrate.
The island is a unique fusion of cultures and peoples. From around the 7th century AD, dhows from such far ﬂung places as China, Arabia and Persia were trading with the people of Lamu, bringing spices, pottery and fabrics – as well as ideas, customs and beliefs. In 1498, the Portuguese – under the command of famed explorer Vasco da Gama – ﬁrst visited the island while ﬂeeing up the coast from Mombasa where their arrival had precipitated hostilities from the local population. They returned in fury a couple of years later, conquering ﬁrst Mombasa then Lamu. Raids from Turkey and Pemba amongst others failed to topple the rule of the Portuguese until Lamu was wrested from their grasp in 1652 by the Omanis. Under their lengthy and moderate protectorate the island ﬂourished, becoming a centre of poetry and learning, arts and architecture. The turn of the nineteenth century heralded more of the upheavals that have been so much a feature of this island's life. Zanzibaris seized the island in the early part of the century, followed shortly afterwards by the Germans who established the ﬁrst post oﬃce in East Africa there before being ousted by the British whose fervour for colonisation swept across the whole region. By this time, the people of the island had meshed and mingled with the peoples who had settled there and become the melting pot of cultures and traditions that it is today.
The island retains the atmosphere of its early days. Alleys too narrow for cars weave through the Old Town. The houses, many of which date back four or ﬁve hundred years, have the inside courtyards, carved doors and intricate niches of Yemeni and Arabic lands, while the markets that bustle on the seafront and in the alleyways are all Africa. The port, dhows and cargo boats pitching and manoeuvring, is a constant hum of movement, sound and colour. Donkeys whiney as they're loaded with sacks, then lumber, ears ﬂicking and nostrils ﬂaring, past pans sizzling with mandazis, pots steaming with biryani and ﬂat-plates sputtering
with frying ﬁsh.
Scents of cardamom, cinnamon and turmeric thicken the hot air, enticing the young men tethering dhows, urging on donkeys and shouting of their wares. Children sucking baobab seeds hurtle past women clustering around newly docked dhows to inspect the day's catch and clutches of old men poring over wooden boards of Bao.